Grapeseed oil is a topical treatment which is exactly as it sounds – an oil extracted directly from the seeds of the common tabletop grape.
It originated with Mediterranean wine producers and a problem that hung over their heads for thousands of years. Wine, as you probably know, is made from crushing the grape fruit to squeeze out its succulent juice, with the seeds playing no role. Consequently, until the last century, wineries were left with vast piles of grape seeds which were only useful as poor quality animal feed.
This all changed with the industrial revolution, as for the first time ever, grape seeds were useful – they could be used to make oil.
A grapeseed isn’t naturally greasy like an olive or coconut. The quantities of oil are miniscule and cannot be squeezed out by hand. But with high tech machinery developed in the 1800s, and the never-ending supplies from wineries all over the world, manufacturers cleverly identified one of the greatest cash cows of the last 150 years. Grapeseed oil became one of America’s premier cooking oils alongside canola oil, sunflower oil, and corn oil…
…and naturally, this new invention wasn’t just used for frying eggs and meat. Grapeseed oil wriggled its way into natural cleansers and soaps everywhere.
Grapeseed oil is a beloved oil in massage parlours due to being extremely light and well absorbed, leaving only a light satin film on the skin afterwards. It’s a common lubricant in commercial shaving creams, and if you’ve bought a natural moisturiser or anti-ageing cream, there’s a strong probability that you’ve applied grapeseed oil to your face.
Now the hype has spread to the acne market, and the glorious truth is that topical grapeseed oil is superb for your skin.
It’s not a marketing scam like chlorophyll or cucumbers. Grapeseed oil is far superior to the the overrated olive oil, and it kills acne through a relatively uncommon mechanism.
A substance which acne-prone skin is missing
That uncommon mechanism is supplying your skin cells with linoleic acid. What is linoleic acid?
It’s one of the many fatty acids found across nature, along with the likes of oleic acid, palmitic acid, linolenic acid and stearic acid. Linoleic acid is a polyunsaturated fat, which is more commonly known as omega 6 when found in foods like almonds.
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Most human beings living in the West eat far too much linoleic acid, due to the astronomical increase in vegetable oils on store shelves over the last 100 years. Overdosing on linoleic acid can destroy your body and skin by cranking up the immune system, suppressing omega 3s (found in fish), and destabilising cell membranes.
For those reasons, I strongly recommend minimising linoleic acid (omega 6s) in an acne-friendly diet…
…but what’s interesting is that despite the daily overdose which we’re all experiencing, a massive swathe of the population are missing linoleic acid in the one place where it’s vital – the skin cells on our face.
Most importantly for us, acne-prone people are particularly deficient. The first telling study appeared back in 1986, concluding that “acne patients have been shown to have low levels of linoleic acid in their skin surface lipids“. Since then, a deluge of fresh evidence has followed. Principally, a dearth of linoleic acid has been shown to make sebum harder and stickier, and all the more skilful in clogging skin pores.
When linoleic acid isn’t available, your sebaceous glands default to oleic acid instead, which is a monounsaturated fat and therefore has a far higher melting point. The resulting clogged pores allow p.acnes bacteria to go wild, and induce the skin cell inflammation which gives birth to nearly all pimples.
The many roles of linoleic acid in acne
Softer sebum is the simplest reason why linoleic acid is so vital, but this fatty acid also has countless minor benefits.
ONE – natural anti-microbial powers which prevent p.acnes from multiplying and taking over.
TWO – linoleic acid is a vital ingredient of ceramides, structural proteins which maintain the integrity of skin cells and defend against irritation and inflammation. Acne patients were found here to have lower ceramide levels than average.
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THREE – similarly, linoleic acid helps to manufacture lamellar granules, another family of skin proteins, which 1) control skin barrier function, and 2) release enzymes that maintain the proper shedding of skin cells by digesting the adhesive barriers between them.
FOUR – linoleic acid is inflammatory in its own right, and protects skin cells from UV radiation damage due to sunlight.
The connection of linoleic acid to sebum production is particularly interesting, as studies suggest that it activates receptors in the sebaceous glands called peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPARs). These receptors were shown in this and this study to regulate the skin’s oil output tightly, and better, PPARs are actually one receptor which Accutane acts on.
Staying on the sebum theme, there’s also evidence that linoleic acid reduces 5-alpha reductase locally, the enzyme that converts testosterone into its more potent pore-clogging form, DHT.
That’s the holy grail of acne treatment. Why? Because inside the body, DHT and testosterone are too important for health and energy to block, but on the skin’s surface, inhibiting the conversion can prevent oily skin and acne while preserving your sex drive and mood.
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Finally, linoleic acid may prevent pesky blackheads from forming. Most blackheads are born when the melanin found in every human’s skin oxidises, turns intensely black, and gets trapped in skin pores. Linoleic acid prevents melanin from getting too high, and cuts off the whole chain of events. This same process can even improve other forms of hyperpigmentation.
Why grapeseed oil could revolutionise your skin
Overall, linoleic acid is connected to numerous sneaky conditions behind the pathogenesis of pimples. Why does this matter? Because out of all the popular natural skincare oils, grapeseed oil is one of the richest in linoleic acid. The percentages are 69.6% linoleic acid, 15.8% oleic acid, 7% palmitic acid, and 4% stearic acid.
Coconut oil contains merely 3% linoleic acid; its claim to fame is the antibacterial lauric acid. Olive oil comes in at 15%, while cocoa butter contains 3.2%. Sesame seed oil contains 41%, which is close but no cigar.
It’s hard to conclusively identify whether your face is deficient in linoleic acid (as it’s usually unconnected to your diet), but if it is, then grapeseed oil is an unbeatable remedy.
There’s a variety of indirect studies on linoleic acid scattered around, as we covered above, but we also have direct evidence, in the form of this double blind study from 1998.
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It tested microcomedones, one of the tiniest forms of clogged pores, in patients with mild acne. It was simple, as those receiving linoleic acid received a near 25% reduction in the size of their microcomedones over 1 month, while the placebo group experienced nothing.
The scientists concluded that “topical linoleic acid might play a role as a comedolytic agent in acne-prone patients”. The definition of comedolytic is an “agent capable of resolving comedones or preventing the formation of new comedones“. Or in layman’s terms: making acne extinct.
Unbeatable for vitamin E (almost)
Grapeseed oil is pretty weak on the nutrition front, with very little vitamin A (the ultimate nutrient for oily skin), vitamin K2, or minerals like magnesium and zinc. But where few skincare remedies can compare is with grapeseed oil’s vitamin E content, with approximately 144% of the daily allowance per 100 grams.
Vitamin E, of course, is among the top 5 nutrients for acne ever, because it strengthens your sebum against oxidation, preventing the mutant compound squalene peroxide from being born and mercilessly clogging your skin pores. Vitamin E is why nuts, green vegetables and eggs are such great foods for acne, but that’s only ingesting it.
By applying grapeseed oil directly, the vitamin E isn’t being wasted on pointless things like your heart, lungs, or keeping your brain functioning; it is transferred completely to your face where it defends against acne outbreaks with hyper concentrated efficiency.
Fairly recently, we covered olive oil, which is also rich in vitamin E but crippled with a disastrous 70% content of oleic acid, a monstrous disruptor of human skin barrier function. Olive oil has been shown to accelerate trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), the genesis of dry, weak and irritated skin.
These oils are possibly the mirror image of each other. Eat olive oil with potatoes and you’ll enjoy a reduction in inflammation; swill grapeseed oil and your acne will redden and redden as your immune system becomes hyperactive. Apply olive oil and you will punch holes in your skin barrier; splash grapeseed oil around and your pimples will calm down.
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Other vitamin E-rich oils have similar problems, including cocoa butter, with its 4 out of 5 comedogenicity score. Coconut oil doesn’t even contain any vitamin E.
If you want to apply vitamin E directly to your acne, then grapeseed oil is one of the best tools for doing it (although argan oil is even better).
The side effects are minimal
There’s also the happy fact that most user reviews are incredibly positive. Some random internet stories from random grapeseed oil users include…
- “Incredible inflammation reducer, reduced cyst by 70%”.
- “Makes my skin feel amazing”.
- “So far my skin is looking very good and my spots are healing”.
- “Not only is my acne slowly disappearing but also the scars”.
- “Within a few hours of the first application, my acne was less red and inflamed”.
Unless grapeseed oil corp. has agents everywhere who paid for every single one of those reviews, then that’s another strong point in its favour.
Finally, there’s the respectable comedogenicity rating of 2 out of 5, indicating a “moderately low” chance of grapeseed oil clogging your skin pores. Therefore, there are no unbreakable concrete obstacles to using it as an all-natural moisturiser, unlike coconut oil or cocoa butter (which both score 4 out of 5). Jojoba oil is another acne-friendly moisturiser, scoring 2 out of 5 once again, but grapeseed oil has it beaten because of the extra vitamin E.
Buy cold pressed grapeseed oil – or pay the price
It should be clear by now that grapeseed oil is a fantastic topical treatment for acne. In its natural form, the side effects are close to non-existent. There’s a slight chance of clogged pores seeing as 2 is higher than zero, and a slight risk of an allergic reaction, an automatic risk with any natural treatment.
But the product you choose has to be that – in its natural form. Like any tiny seed where only the Incredible Hulk could squeeze the oil out by hand, the standard industrial process for making this oil involves chemical solvents, catalysts, and the nightmare-inducing neurotoxin hexane.
Plus, grapeseed oil has a very specific problem which shows up in studies – carcinogenic substances called polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, which form due to incomplete combustion of organic matter. Believe it or not, commercial grapeseed oils undergo a drying process where there’s direct contact with combustion gases, which are so harsh that PAHs are born.
Raw grape pomace is also compacted with bulldozers before the oil is extracted, and this too is believed to generate PAHs. Aside from causing cancer, most carcinogens are linked to free radical overload inside the body, so what’s the aspiring acne maniac’s solution? Buy a cold pressed bottle of course!
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Sometimes known as expeller-pressed, cold pressed grapeseed oil is also a recent invention. 100 years ago, your average vineyard farmer couldn’t dream of acquiring the miracle treatment lying in tantalising piles in front of him, but now, we have extremely powerful machinery to push the oils out.
This alternative factory process is performed at cooler temperatures and without any brutal chemical solvents and additives. Rather than chemicals, our old friend the sun is employed (at 5 bucks an hour probably) to dry the seeds out on hardwood trays. This cold-pressing keeps the vitamin E intact as well.
An excellent grapeseed oil product
Dark bottles are vital for many different topical treatments, including tea tree oil. However, grapeseed oil is particularly important, because it has such a high proportion of polyunsaturated fats, which are the most unstable form of fat, with saturated being the most stable and monounsaturated fat being in-between.
Fresh grapeseed oil is clear skin in a bottle, while a rancid bottle is a whole civilisation of free radicals. If you can only buy a clear bottle, then transfer it to a dark bottle or store it away from light.
It’s also smart to smell your oil beforehand. Some companies get lazy, store the grapeseed oil in a dark warehouse for months, and sell you a bad quality bottle for a higher price. If it’s rancid, then you’ll know, as the odour will be unmistakable.
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Always store your bottle in a cool place where the temperature never exceeds 70 degrees. The high proportion of polyunsaturated fats means that by its very nature, grapeseed oil won’t last for over 2 years like coconut oil and cocoa butter, but keeping it cool will prevent spoilage.
A natural brand which combines all of the points above is this Sky Organics Grapeseed Oil.
Your fool proof application strategy
The last question is application, and here your strategy is very simple indeed – apply a whole layer to your face.
Unlike raw honey, grapeseed oil isn’t designed to kill off an individual pimple – its mission is to kill acne in the first place. Inundate your whole face with a moderate amount of the oil, and you will supply every single skin cell with the fatty acids they’re starved of.
Show no mercy to your acne, leave no area untouched. If you do have a linoleic acid deficiency then you’ll enjoyed reduced inflammation, sebum production, and natural moisturisation. You’ll notice a thin oily film after application, but that’s perfectly normal. I would apply your grapeseed oil each day for at least a month before judging whether it’s truly been effective for you.
Follow those experts steps and your skin will always be two steps ahead of the competition.
Conclusion
There are so many promising plants and essential oils out there, but grapeseed oil should never be written off as some cookie cutter treatment. Why? Because its line of attack is completely unique.
Grapeseed oil combines linoleic acid and vitamin E into one tidy package. For vitamin E alone, it’s still the best choice, as olive oil is fatally flawed.
Raw honey is an antibacterial treatment, aloe vera is anti-inflammatory and witch hazel specialises in antioxidants. If you’re linoleic acid-deficient and don’t even realise it, then grapeseed oil is the treatment for you.
Consider this scenario – what if you’ve flooded your body with antioxidants, taken anti-inflammatory strategies as far as possible, but still can’t clear acne? In that case, it’s highly possible that you lack linoleic acid, and inundating your face with it is definitely a goal to pursue.
Try grapeseed oil, and you may discover the fabled acne cure you’ve been seeking. Again, a great product is this Sky Organics Grapeseed Oil.
Just don’t make the one catastrophic mistake – never eat it! Grapeseed oil is a healthy sounding name, but it’s one of the worst foods for acne ever. P.acnes bacteria will be watching intently and praying that you put this oil in your body.
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Thanks for reading!